Saint Laurent Spring Summer 2024
Yves Saint Laurent’s introduction of the utilitarian-syle refined safari jacket in the late 1960s marked a significant departure from traditional elegance in fashion, swiftly becoming a widespread trend, notably championed by the influential Vogue magazine. Throughout his illustrious career, Saint Laurent continually reshaped the fashion landscape with groundbreaking designs like Le Smoking—a tuxedo suit for women that challenged gender norms and pioneered menswear-inspired design while establishing his enduring legacy in fashion history.
Always ahead of his time, Saint Laurent drew inspiration from diverse sources such as modern art, Russian folk art and culture, Orientalism, and the Ballets Russes. His designs ranged from opulent and ultra-feminine masterpieces, many now revered as prized museum pieces, to sleek and functional, nearly minimalist creations. Each collection epitomized chicness while exuding an air of rebellion against the prevailing fashion norms, further solidifying Saint Laurent’s reputation as a visionary in the industry.
In the spring/summer 2024 collection by Anthony Vaccarello, Creative Director at YSL since 2016, the iconic casual chic of the Saharienne jacket and the pioneering spirit of female pilots and aviators were embraced, reflecting their daring capabilities across a dynamic collection grounded in utility. This collection raises the question: Was it an anti-fashion moment, a departure from embroidery, embellishments, decorative, and hyper-geometric designs seen on today’s runways, or was it an embrace of bold casual and confident power dressing? Vaccarello’s reference to figures like Amelia Earhart and Adrienne Bolland suggests agency, independence, and groundbreaking style, merging functionality with effortless elegance.
The Saint Laurent women graced the runway in sophisticated safari jackets paired with pleated trousers in rich earthy hues like burgundy, brown, and cream. Sheer tops added allure to their silhouettes, while classic untucked shirts and cargo-style dresses added a timeless touch. Each ensemble, unified in its monotone palette, exuded an exclusive air reminiscent of YSL’s iconic style, infused with an undeniable sense of chic sophistication by Vaccarello.
The fashion show culminated with three dazzling mousseline evening dresses—one in charcoal, one in brown, and one in mustard—each meticulously paired to highlight graceful draping. As they flowed in the wind, these dresses epitomized unmatched elegance, serving as the crowning jewels of the collection and the befitting evolution of safari dressing from masculine back to feminine.
