Saint Laurent FW 2025
Anthony Vaccarello’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection for Saint Laurent distilled elegance to its essence. This season, he focused on silhouette, color, and movement, stripping away excess in favor of pure, expressive design. The result was a collection that embraced structure without rigidity and luxury without pretense.
Silhouettes were bold yet fluid, defined by broad shoulders that tapered into sweeping lines. High-collared coats in rich jewel tones—amethyst, citrine, coral, and deep emerald—wrapped the body with effortless grace, their seamless construction lending a sculptural quality. Dresses pared down to their most essential forms, moved with a quiet power. Softly draped bow-back blouses and narrow skirts replaced the expected tailoring, while supple technical jerseys introduced an unexpected sense of stretch and ease.
The collection paid homage to the clean yet dramatic lines of Yves Saint Laurent’s 1990s haute couture. Vaccarello reinterpreted the era’s signature bold shoulders and vibrant hues, allowing color and structure to take center stage without the need for embellishment. The sharp yet flowing silhouettes recalled a time when confidence and elegance were effortlessly intertwined.
For evening, volume took center stage. Ball gowns—grand in proportion yet unencumbered by embellishment—floated down the runway, their sweeping skirts paired with silk camisoles or structured outerwear. The interplay of softness and strength was heightened by a palette that mixed classic black with unexpected earthy browns and tans, grounding the collection in warmth and depth.
What set this collection apart was its masterful use of fabric and texture. Lace pieces, some nearly sheer and others intricately layered, added a romantic tension to the stark silhouettes. Animal prints—bold yet refined—brought an element of sauvage elegance, a nod to Saint Laurent’s long-standing fascination with the untamed. Meanwhile, glossy vinyl-like fabrics offered a striking contrast, their liquid sheen emphasizing the sculptural quality of the garments. These juxtapositions of delicacy and power, classicism and modernity, made the collection a testament to Vaccarello’s ability to reinterpret the house’s legacy with a fresh perspective.
This collection was less about revisiting history and more about distilling its essence. The broad-shouldered silhouette, an echo of past eras, felt resolutely modern—proof that strength and fluidity can coexist. In a time when fashion often leans into spectacle, Vaccarello offered something quieter yet no less commanding: a study in refinement, where cut and color speak for themselves. Saint Laurent.
