In a stunning showcase held at France’s Bibliothèque Nationale Richelieu, Kenzo’s Fall 2024 menswear collection unfolded amidst the cultural tapestry of Paris and Tokyo. Nigo, the creative force behind Kenzo, masterfully intertwined diverse influences to craft a collection that felt simultaneously fresh and deeply rooted in tradition.
Drawing inspiration from many cultural references, Nigo’s designs breathed new life into traditional Japanese motifs. Checkered patterns reminiscent of tatami mats and twist-stemmed florals inspired by karakusa adorned coats and jackets, each piece a testament to Nigo’s innovative vision. Shearling mittens, aviators, and strapped jerkins infused the collection with rugged explorer wear charm, juxtaposed against deconstructed denim workwear for a modern twist.
Throughout the collection, Nigo paid homage to his own experiences, with red and green collarless blazers draped in Kenzo-themed institutional buttons—a nod to his school uniform days. Short and long duffle coats, woven in tatami check jacquard, harkened back to seafaring outerwear from distant lands.
As Kenzo’s womenswear evolved under Nigo’s guidance, the collection embraced a more conventionally feminine aesthetic. Rib-knit mini-dresses with accentuated hips and sweetheart necklines exuded femininity, cinched with wide leather belts for a bold silhouette.
Nigo’s exploration of padded chest pieces with straps drew inspiration from Japanese protective attire, echoing interpretations by designers like Craig Green. Letterman jackets adorned with Kenzo iconography showcased cross-cultural influences, while chest rigs layered over black tailoring or outerwear evoked a sense of futuristic exploration. With its intricate layering of references and textures, Nigo’s Fall 2024 menswear collection for Kenzo may be his most assured and complex yet. Kenzo.