Gucci SS 2025 RTW
Gucci’s Spring/Summer 2025 ready-to-wear collection debuted with a nostalgic yet refreshing tone, as Sabato De Sarno delivered a vivid celebration of Italian summers and iconic style. Returning to La Triennale in Milan—a museum of art and design that hosted his previous men’s collection—De Sarno transformed the venue into a sunset-hued dreamscape. The runway wound through oblong rooms bathed in shades of yellow, orange, and “Ancora red,” evoking the warm glow of endless August days.
De Sarno’s inspiration was rooted in the casual grandeur of Jackie Kennedy Onassis, a Gucci client and enduring style icon. Archival explorations unearthed the phrase “casual grandeur,” which guided his creative journey. The collection channeled Jackie’s Capri-era jet-set aesthetic with headscarves, oversized sunglasses, and woven raffia coats in fluoro green. Printed seaside separates with wide-brimmed sun hats paid homage to a Gucci-patterned photo of Queen Elizabeth II, adding a royal touch to the mix.
The synchronicity of Jackie O’s renewed cultural relevance—thanks to Ryan Murphy’s upcoming series on John F. Kennedy Jr. and Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy—lent a contemporary edge to these vintage inspirations.
The runway sparkled as much as the celebrity-packed front row, with Kirsten Dunst, Dakota Johnson, and Daisy Edgar-Jones among the glittering attendees. The fashion show also showcased red carpet-worthy pieces like a mirror-sequined sleeveless dress, bold glamour indeed, and De Sarno’s softer, more relaxed aesthetic.
Casual elegance was the prevailing mood. The opening look—hip-slung slouchy trousers paired with a wool bomber and sneakers—set the tone for a collection that masterfully blended sophistication and ease. This theme extended to oversized coats worn with tanks and boyish jeans, embodying the elusive laid-back spirit that De Sarno has sought to define in his tenure.
Paying homage to Gucci’s heritage, the collection reinterpreted Tom Ford’s iconic white jersey dresses from the Fall of 1996. De Sarno’s versions featured rich, deep hues and were accessorized with gold bamboo-shaped armbands and chokers, nodding to the brand’s storied past.
Accessories, with the Bamboo bag, reimagined through vintage iterations customized by Japanese artists. A bucket bag with horsebit detailing and flat boots that evolved from Gucci’s classic loafers rounded out the collection, blending utility and luxury seamlessly.
De Sarno’s show was not just a showcase of fashion but a moment of collective uplift. As the models took their final lap to the tune of Fiordaliso’s 1986 hit “Non-Voglio Mica La Luna,” the audience couldn’t help but sing along and sway in their seats. The joyous atmosphere reflected De Sarno’s intention to brighten Gucci’s mood and expand its appeal.
With this collection, De Sarno demonstrated his ability to bridge Gucci’s storied history with a contemporary vision, finding fans both on and off the runway. The spirit of optimism and casual elegance might signal a promising new chapter for the house. Gucci.
