Haute couture collection can sometimes be all about opulent extravagance, and other times a lesson in craft. In her Dior Haute Couture collection for fall 2023, creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri achieved all of the above with demure elegance. To say that a show steeped in simplicity and classic couture silhouettes is an extravagance is to understand fashion amid this ‘look at me – look and my logo’ culture. From the sheath cape dresses, tunics, peplums, capes, and alines awash with delicate tones and neutrals, soft grays, off-whites, black, and smokey golds, and silvers punctuation, the designer’s bold risk was to embrace timeless elegance and style with a capital S. Befitting a Goddess, the looks in the collection are timeless, elegant, and Dior-centric yet Chiuri’s delicate touch brings quiet modern touches to the feminine collection. Peplums flow from under-cropped over layers, and the designer’s use of romantic brocade and Renaissance sleeves adds sophistication and softness.
In this collection, embellishments are delicate and deceivingly minimal. The fabrics are elegant classic winter wool and cashmere, stunning modern lace, and silks. Notable artisans and ateliers in Paris are responsible for the exquisite handwork. The hand embroidery accentuates and illuminates the length and cut, bringing sparkle and shimmer while never overwhelming. Embroidery, also complete with shimmer, delicately frames and accentuates the garment’s shape and long lines. The ‘seen simplicity’ and purity of the collection are the reverent work of a master designer. A designer is so confident in her craft that her embrace of the classical is a work anew. Modern with inward-looking elegance defines the Dior woman for Fall 23.
