Following his successful runway extravaganza at the Sacré Coeur, designer Alexandre Mattiussi continued his creative celebration of Paris with a new show for the fall and winter of 2023 at the Opéra Bastille. Ami, the brand he founded, has gained global recognition for its elegant and clean lines, drawing inspiration from menswear to create sophisticated simplicity for both men and women.
Mattiussi’s vision for the current season was one of renewal and purity. He approached his collection with the mindset of a new creative director joining Ami, seeking a blank canvas to start afresh. The result was a stunning array of sorbet shades, fluid fabrics, and well-tailored garments gracefully gliding down the runway.
Reflecting on the collection, Mattiussi expressed that these were the very clothes he had envisioned crafting twelve years ago when he established the brand. He described them as his personal favorites, possessing an effortless and chic charm. Oversized coats in hues as pure as crème, accompanied by wide-leg trousers, silky shirts, and trench coats in shades of Champagne, oyster shell, and cinnamon, beautifully epitomized his vision.
Charlotte Rampling
While neutrals dominated the collection, there were moments when bolder colors made an appearance, such as powder blue and dusty pink ankle-sweeping coats, a rose silky shirt paired with taupe trousers, and a striking navy blue long tank dress, as well as the grand finale of a roomy three-piece suit, elegantly worn by Charlotte Rampling.
Mattiussi’s penchant for nostalgia also shone through as he drew inspiration from the charming 1970s era. A-line skirts paired with matching boiled wool sweaters in captivating shades of corn and eggplant graced the runway, completed with trendy pointy flats or boots.
The show’s standout looks undoubtedly were the designer’s back-to-basics designs, meticulously crafted with fine fabrics. In a departure from the shock, exaggeration, and logo-heavy trends, Mattiussi’s reset aligns with the movement towards comfort-elegance, setting the tone for a new era in fashion.
In summary, Alexandre Mattiussi’s fall and winter 2023 collection for Ami showcased a captivating blend of simplicity and sophistication, capturing the essence of a new chapter in fashion where comfort and elegance intertwine seamlessly.
Marie Sophie Wilson
